
Pop-up self-standing mosquito net, 1 person
Mosquito net shelter that opens by itself, no poles to assemble: 200 × 72 × 70 cm open, 492 g, folds flat into its pouch.
Our edition · Madagascar
“Madagascar on Your Own Terms” is the complete ebook that plans your trip from A to Z. The RN7, baobabs and tsingy: driver or self-drive, day-by-day itineraries, real-world budget.
The guide is currently written in French — an English edition is in the works.
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10 chapters · 11,000+ words · instant download · 14-day guarantee
The guide starts from zero and turns every unknown into a simple procedure: rental, first roads, first bookings. The method behind our Namibia guide, applied to Madagascar.
Misunderstood insurance, the wrong season, overrated stops, an underestimated budget: the classic traps are well known — and all avoidable when you know where to look.
Contradictory forums, dated blogs, sales brochures: we did the sorting and the checking. You get the ordered, actionable digest.
Table of contents
10 chapters that follow the real order of your preparation: decide, book, drive, live the trip.
The three truths that shape everything: a driver is part of independence here, distances lie, and the dry season is a condition — not a preference.
Why independence (almost always) includes a driver · A real average of 35-45 km/h: what it does to your itinerary · What the island gives back in exchange for its constraints · Who this guide is for, and how to use it
April to November opens the country, December to March closes it: the full calendar by region, and our windows depending on your priority.
How the seasons work and the tsingy closure (December-March) · The complete month-by-month, April through March · October, our reference month — and why · When to book what: 4x4, flights, critical accommodation
The chapter that pays for the guide: why a driver costs less than self-drive, the price scope to lock down in writing, and how to recognise a good driver.
The 2026 numbers: €60-90/day with driver, €70-100 without · The honest case for self-drive (three profiles, no more) · The 6 contract lines: driver expenses, fuel, ferries, one-way, mileage, insurance · Recognising a good driver — and changing if needed · Tipping: what's actually customary
The real state of the network in 2026, axis by axis, and the six golden rules that Malagasy drivers follow themselves.
RN7, RN34, the Bekopaka track: real average speeds · Never at night: THE rule of the country · Fill up at every chance, plan at 40 km/h, ferries dictate the schedule · Domestic flights, bush taxis, pirogues: what completes the road · The self-drive supplement: sand, fords, horn etiquette
Three proven circuits with real distances and driving times: the full RN7, the RN7 + West combo, and the grand tour with the Tsiribihina river.
12 days: the full RN7 (~1,100 km + 1 flight) · 15 days: RN7 + baobabs and tsingy (~1,900 km), our recommendation · 21 days: the grand tour with the Tsiribihina descent and Kirindy · The principles that hold a Malagasy itinerary together
From the hotely to the boutique lodge: the real categories, prices stop by stop, and the short-booking strategy that keeps the circuit flexible.
The 4 real categories, from €10 to €250 · The 2026 price table, stop by stop · Only lock the bottlenecks: Bekopaka, Isalo in August, Tana · Power cuts, hot water, cold highland nights: know before your first night · Our mixed formula: mid-range + 2-3 well-placed boutique nights
Every cost in euros and ariary, three complete profiles for 2 people over 15 days, and handling money day to day.
Flights, 4x4, fuel, parks: the 2026 ranges · The 3-profile table: ≈ €2,670 / €3,660 / €4,900 for two excluding flights · Where to save without impoverishing the trip — and the false economies · The ariary day to day: ATMs, cash reserve before the West, small notes
The signature chapter: the 4-day Morondava-Bekopaka block timed around the river ferries, the harnessed Great Tsingy, and the Avenue of the Baobabs at the right moment.
The track and the two ferries: 200 km, 8-10 hours, dawn departure · The Great Tsingy: what to really expect (harness, vertigo, heat) · The Avenue of the Baobabs: classic sunset, secret sunrise · The Tsiribihina descent and Kirindy forest: extensions worth taking · The 5 mistakes that cost you the West
Visa, malaria, insurance with evacuation cover, the country's real risk level, and managing money and connectivity.
2026 visa: e-visa or on arrival (~€35) · Malaria: prophylaxis recommended + mechanical protection · Evacuation insurance, non-negotiable here · Safety, calmly: Tana, Ilakaka, and the road as the real number-one risk · Telma SIM, ariary, power cuts: everyday logistics
The chapter to print: complete packing list, bookings in order, the last ten days, and the 10 field reminders.
The packing checklist: documents, health, circuit gear · Bookings in the right order, with lead times · The last-ten-days checklist · The 10 reminders to re-read on the plane — mora mora included
Sample pages
Chapter 3 — Driver or Self-Drive
The real debate, settled by the numbers
« Yes, you read that right: self-drive costs more than renting with a driver. The reason is mechanical: rental companies price the risk. A 4x4 handed to a foreigner on Malagasy tracks comes back broken more often than one driven by a professional who knows every mudhole — and the few agencies that allow self-drive make you pay for it, with prohibitive deposits and broad insurance exclusions. And what the driver takes away from you: nothing. You set the itinerary, the schedule, the photo stops, the hotels. The real debate isn't 'freedom versus comfort' — it's 'where to put your energy'. In Madagascar, the road is a profession. »
Chapter 8 — The West as an Expedition
The ferries: the bottleneck that dictates everything
« The two river ferries — the Tsiribihina at Belo, the Manambolo at Bekopaka — are artisanal barges that only load in daylight, with no published timetable: first come, first loaded. Crossing the Tsiribihina takes a good hour including loading; the queue can add two more in high season. The practical consequences: leave Morondava at 6 am, not 8. Every hour gained in the morning is cashed in at the ferry. Your driver knows the ferrymen and the real order of things: this is where the with-driver formula pays back its difference. »
Chapter 4 — Driving in Madagascar
Rule number one, non-negotiable
« This is THE rule of the country, and Malagasy drivers follow it themselves. Night falls fast (5:30-6:30 pm depending on the season) and the road fills with invisible obstacles: zebu carts with no lights whatsoever, pedestrians and cyclists in the middle of the carriageway, trucks stopped without a warning triangle, potholes capable of ripping off a wheel. Every one of your stages is built around this rule: arrived before 5 pm, departed after sunrise. An itinerary that assumes night driving is a badly built itinerary. »
The order form
The RN7, baobabs and tsingy: driver or self-drive, day-by-day itineraries, real-world budget
44 €
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How it works
The shop
A few items we take on our own self-drive trips, shipped from the supplier's warehouse within 8 to 15 working days — free delivery from €49.

Mosquito net shelter that opens by itself, no poles to assemble: 200 × 72 × 70 cm open, 492 g, folds flat into its pouch.

10-litre dry bag with roll-top and buckle closure and a shoulder strap, to keep papers, phone and clothes safe from water and dust.

Empty light grey Oxford-fabric pouch with double zip and handle, to hold your own travel first-aid kit and keep it within reach in the car.
Before you go
Right after payment you receive a download link: the full guide in HTML, readable on any device and printable to PDF in one click (Cmd/Ctrl+P), plus the chapters in Markdown to read wherever you like. No proprietary app, no subscription.
Not yet: the guide is currently written in French, and an English edition is in the works. Prices, routes and checklists are of course language-independent — but if you don't read French, we recommend waiting for the English edition.
Yes: the price ranges, local rules and advice reflect the 2026 situation. The fundamentals — itineraries, driving or transport, logistics — change very little from year to year.
A simple guarantee: 14 days, money back, no questions asked. One email to our support is enough — full refund within 48 hours. We'd far rather refund you than leave a disappointed reader.
Our free pages (the Madagascar country page, destinations, field notes) give you the panorama. The guide gives you the complete, ordered method: day-by-day itineraries, a line-by-line budget, detailed driving and logistics, and every checklist. It's the digest we wish we'd had before our first trip.