Essaouira
Atlantic-battered ramparts, a blue port, an artists' medina swept by the trade winds: the ocean breather that ideally closes the southern loop.
Suggested stay — 2 nights
After the dust of the kasbahs and the desert furnace, Essaouira feels like an open window: permanent cool wind, gulls over the fishing port, sardines grilled at the quayside, and a UNESCO-listed medina — orthogonal, white and blue, small enough to be tamed in a day.
Two nights close the trip gently: the sqala ramparts at sunset, thuya marquetry workshops, an immense beach where kitesurfers replace swimmers (the trade wind means business), and the return road to Marrakech (2 h 45) lined with goats perched in the argan trees.
Don't miss
- The Sqala de la Kasbah and its cannons facing the ocean, at sunset
- The fishing port as the boats come in, then the fish grills at the quay
- The medina and its galleries, heirs of the hippie years
- The argan-oil cooperatives on the Marrakech road (choose an authentic women's cooperative)
Our tips on the ground
- The wind is a character: pack a windproof layer even in summer, and pick a riad with a sheltered patio.
- Park at the guarded car park by the medina gates: everything is walked from there.
- Eat fish at the port's numbered grill stalls at midday: choose, weigh, grill — the trip's best simple meal.
On our publishing schedule
Coming soon“Morocco on your own”, the complete edition, is in preparation
Same method as our Namibia guide: day-by-day itineraries, driving, a costed budget and checklists. Leave us your address and you'll hear about the launch — at the launch price.
In the meantime, our reference
The “Namibia on your own” guide — €29
- The same method, already applied to Africa's easiest self-drive country
- 3 day-by-day itineraries, 4x4 insurance decoded, costed budget
- Instant download, 14-day guarantee — currently in French, English edition coming
Before you go
Readers' questions about Essaouira
Essaouira or Agadir to finish on the ocean?
Essaouira, no debate, for the charm: a historic medina, a living port, human scale. Agadir is a modern rebuilt resort, perfect for a pool holiday but unrelated to the spirit of a road trip. The one caveat: in Essaouira the trade wind makes swimming sporty.
How long to Marrakech?
About 2 h 45 on the R207/N8, a decent flowing road. It's the logical last leg before the flight: many travellers return the car at Marrakech airport the same day, or sleep one final riad night to leave rested.