Moremi Self-Drive: Gates, Campsites and Water Crossings in the Heart of the Okavango Delta

Moremi covers the eastern part of the Okavango Delta, where the waters of the annual flood meet the dry Kalahari sands: a mosaic of lagoons, palm islands, mopane forests and floodplains that concentrates an exceptional density of life. The system's richness is scientifically documented: the reference inventory published by Lars Ramberg and colleagues in 2006 in the journal Aquatic Sciences counts more than 1,300 plant species in the delta, 444 birds, 122 mammals and 71 fish — one of southern Africa's great biodiversity reservoirs, fed by a flood that paradoxically arrives in the middle of the dry season (study on Google Scholar: scholar.google.com/scholar?q=Ramberg+species+diversity+Okavango+Delta+Botswana+Aquatic+Sciences).

For the traveller in a 4x4, this translates very concretely: wild dogs and leopards regularly seen, elephant concentrations among the highest on the continent in the dry season, and lagoon-side vigils where hippos, fish eagles and semi-aquatic antelope like the red lechwe parade past.

Everything starts from Maun, Botswana's safari capital, where you usually collect the equipped 4x4. Moremi opens through two main entrances: South Gate (Maqwee), about two hours of gravel north of Maun, and North Gate (Khwai), on the Khwai River at the reserve's north-east. Inside, the two major poles are Xakanaxa and its lagoons, at the end of the central tongue of land, and Third Bridge, the legendary campsite set by a log bridge between two channels.

Distances are short on the map and long on the track: allow half a day between South Gate and Third Bridge in normal conditions, more at the height of the flood. Gate opening and closing times are strict (closure at sunset) and the rangers enforce them — plan your stages accordingly.

Moremi's paradox: driving in the reserve is within reach of any attentive 4x4 driver, but getting the campsites is a small war. The historic sites (Third Bridge, Xakanaxa, South Gate, Khwai) are run by separate private concessionaires, each with its own booking system, and the pitches — unfenced, visited at night by hyenas and elephants — number in the dozens, not hundreds. In high season (July-October), the best sites go nearly a year ahead.

Two practical rules: book the campsites before booking the flights, because they are what structures the itinerary; and settle the park fees in advance according to the procedure in force at the time of your trip — the arrangements (prepayment or payment at the gates, cash or card) change regularly in Botswana, so verify them when booking rather than discovering them at the barrier.

Moremi is earned behind the wheel. The deep sand of the mopane tracks demands deflated tyres and momentum; the water crossings — the local speciality, especially between Third Bridge and Xakanaxa and around Khwai — require the full routine: wade and check on foot when possible, watch another vehicle cross, enter in low first gear and drive out without stopping. Depth varies enormously with the flood: a trivial crossing in November can drown an engine in July.

The non-negotiable equipment: two spare wheels, a compressor, sand boards, a tow strap, a GPS with proper mapping (Tracks4Africa) and enough water and fuel for the entire stay inside the reserve — there is no fuel station or shop inside. Travelling with two vehicles remains the best insurance; alone, tell each gate your route for the day.

The dry season (May-October) is the safe bet: passable tracks, low vegetation, wildlife concentrated at permanent water — with the magnificent paradox of the flood reaching the delta in June-August, filling the lagoons at the driest time of year. It is also the season of impossible bookings and corrugated tracks.

The green season (December-March) transforms the exercise: sumptuous landscapes, newborn animals, lower prices — but sometimes impassable tracks, whole sectors closed by water and daily storms. November and April, the two pivots, offer the best compromise for a first Moremi self-drive: an accessible reserve, few visitors, and an experience that stays adventurous without becoming an expedition.

Moremi combines naturally with its northern neighbours in Botswana's great classic traverse: exit through North Gate, a stop in the Khwai community area (outside the reserve, where campfires and night drives are possible), then up to Savuti and its elephant-hunting lions, and finally the Chobe riverfront and its elephant herds before exiting at Kasane, gateway to Victoria Falls. A week of pure self-sufficient safari that many consider — we among them — the finest wildlife road trip on the continent.

Our 'Botswana on Your Own' guide details the Maun-Kasane traverse day by day: the contacts and booking procedures for each Moremi campsite, GPS points for the tricky water crossings, equipment checklists and the expedition's complete budget.