Jordan on your own
A rose-red city carved into the cliff, a Martian desert where you sleep with the Bedouin and a sea that floats you effortlessly: Jordan packs the whole epic into 400 km of easy roads.

When to go
Spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November) rule: 20-28 °C, golden light, mild desert nights. Summer crushes the Dead Sea, Aqaba and the Rum (40 °C and beyond) but remains workable at Petra and Dana, up at altitude. Winter surprises: it freezes at night in Petra (1,000 m), it sometimes snows in Amman, and the Wadi Mujib water hikes close from November to March. During Ramadan everything runs, but hours shift — check the dates.
What it costs
A mid-priced destination, weighed down by entry fees: small car €25-45/day (no 4x4 needed), fuel around €1.15/L, hotels and guesthouses €40-90, Wadi Rum Bedouin camps €50-130 half board depending on comfort (from goat-hair tent to transparent bubble). The Jordan Pass (JD 70-80, i.e. €90-105 depending on your Petra days) pays for itself in visa and sites from day one. Budget €2,200-3,200 for two over 10-12 days excluding flights.
Driving & transport
Right-hand driving, signage doubled in English on the main axes. The real traps: unmarked speed bumps at the entrance to every village (the national plague), frequent radars on the Desert Highway, sheep and camels across the King's Highway, and creative urban driving in Amman — best avoided by collecting the car at the airport. Do not drive at night: unlit trucks and non-existent verges. Police checkpoints are routine and good-natured: a smile, your passport, and "welcome to Jordan".
Jordan is the Middle East's great misunderstanding: people imagine it complicated, and it is one of the easiest countries in the world to drive. A territory the size of Portugal, one backbone — the King's Highway, a caravan route 5,000 years old — threading Madaba and its mosaics, the Wadi Mujib canyon, Kerak's crusader castle, Dana, Petra, then Wadi Rum, before dropping to the Red Sea. And everywhere, Bedouin hospitality as the universal language: sage tea comes before any transaction.
Our guide for this country: See what's inside — €44 →
Behind the wheel, no ordeal at all: main roads in good condition, sparse traffic outside Amman, short distances (4 hours from the capital to Petra on the Desert Highway, 2 more to the Rum). A small car works everywhere — a 4x4 only matters inside Wadi Rum, where you ride with a Bedouin guide anyway. The Jordan Pass, bought before departure, waives the visa fee and opens Petra, Jerash and forty other sites: it is the trip's first reflex.
The destinations that matter
3
No. 011 to 2 nightsWadi RumSandstone mesas set on red sand, silence in surround sound and the Milky Way for a ceiling: Wadi Rum is the most memorable night of the trip.No. 021 nightDead SeaThe lowest point on the planet, water so dense you can read the paper while floating, and rust-coloured cliffs: the strangest swim of a lifetime.No. 031 to 2 nightsDana ReserveAn Ottoman stone village suspended on the rim of a canyon 1,200 m deep: Dana is the country's best-kept secret — and its finest walking ground.More stops worth adding to the trip
Petra
At the end of a canyon of shadow, the Treasury's façade catches fire in the morning light: two thousand years after the Nabataeans, it remains the ancient world's greatest stage entrance.
What to see
- The Siq and the Treasury at opening (6 am), before the groups and in the best light
- The climb to the Monastery (Ad-Deir) in late afternoon, when the façade catches fire
- The Al-Khubtha trail for the plunging view over the Treasury
Suggested time: 2 nights, 3 if you hike
Jerash and the desert castles
An almost intact Roman city to the north, Umayyad pavilions with unexpected frescoes to the east: around Amman, two loops of history to unspool through the windscreen.
What to see
- Jerash's Oval Plaza and cardo at opening, raking light on the columns
- The Umayyad frescoes of Qusayr Amra, unique in the world (UNESCO)
- Qasr Kharana, the desert's perfect cube, and the Azraq fort dear to Lawrence
Suggested time: 1 to 2 days from Amman
Aqaba and the Red Sea
After the sandstone and the dust, the big blue: Aqaba's coral reefs start a few metres from the shore — the circuit's final reward, mask pushed up on your forehead.
What to see
- Snorkelling the Japanese Garden, accessible from the beach (South Beach)
- The Cedar Pride wreck on scuba — or on ambitious snorkel, it tops out at 8 m
- Aqaba's corniche and souk at sunset, sayadieh for dinner
Suggested time: 2 nights
Jordan: practical notes
Tolls, fines, money, seasons, budget, rental: the essentials, gathered on this page.
Jordan Road Trip Budget: What Does a Day on the Road Really Cost?
"What does a day of road-tripping in Jordan actually cost?" The question comes up constantly before a trip to Petra and Wadi Rum, and the honest answer comes down to three choices: sleeping in a guesthouse or a simple Bedouin camp, eating street food or restaurant meals, and above all how many days to buy on the Jordan Pass. Fuel between €1.30 and €1.70 a litre depending on the grade, guesthouses from €40 a night, and a Jordan Pass starting at €91 per person: here's what to actually budget for a self-drive trip along the King's Highway, cost by cost.
- Book the Wanderer Jordan Pass (1 day) instead of Explorer if Petra works as one intensive day rather than two.
- Eat street food (falafel, hummus, shawarma) for at least every other meal, Amman included.
- Book the Wadi Rum camp directly by WhatsApp rather than through a booking platform.
- Choose a family-run guesthouse with breakfast included over a chain hotel.
- Pick up the car at Queen Alia airport to avoid any city-agency surcharge.
- Travel in spring or autumn: the same prices as summer, without the heat pushing you toward paid air-conditioned breaks.
| Accommodation | Price for two, per night |
|---|---|
| Simple guesthouse (Madaba, Wadi Musa, Aqaba) | about €40-60 |
| Comfort guesthouse or small hotel, private bathroom | about €70-90 |
| Simple Bedouin camp, Wadi Rum, half-board | about €70-100 for two |
| Comfort camp, Wadi Rum, private bathroom | about €140-200 for two |
| Panoramic bubble, Wadi Rum | from €260 for two |
Money in Jordan: Jordanian dinar, bank cards and ATMs
In Amman or in an Aqaba hotel lobby, a bank card works almost everywhere, much like in Europe. But the moment the road leaves the desert highway for a track towards Wadi Rum, or pulls into a small filling station on the King's Highway, the picture changes completely: no one has a card reader, and only cash Jordanian dinars open any doors. Here's what to know about the local currency, ATMs, entrance fees and Bedouin guides before taking the wheel of a rented 4x4 in Jordan.
| Expense in Wadi Rum | Typical amount (JOD) | Payment |
|---|---|---|
| Protected Area entrance | 5 JOD per person | Cash only |
| Village → desert transfer (per vehicle) | 20-30 JOD | Cash only |
| Half-day jeep tour with a guide | 25-35 JOD per person | Cash only |
| Full-day jeep tour, water and lunch included | 40-60 JOD per person | Cash only |
| Night in a Bedouin camp, dinner and breakfast included | Varies by camp, often 30-50 JOD per person | Cash, sometimes card via an online booking |
Police Checks and Fines in Jordan for Self-Drivers: Hidden Speed Bumps, the New 0.05 Alcohol Limit and Desert Highway Checkpoints
Jordan has a well-earned reputation as one of the safest, most welcoming countries in the Middle East for a foreign driver: checkpoints are routine, officers are courteous, and a cheerful "welcome to Jordan" ends more stops than a ticket does. But that relaxed atmosphere hides a real risk, statistically far bigger than any fine: road accidents in the country have risen by more than 50% in four years, and Jordanian law has just been tightened on drink driving. Here's what to know before taking the wheel of a rental car between Amman, Petra and Wadi Rum.
| Speed over the limit | Indicative fine | Note |
|---|---|---|
| 5 to 10 km/h over | Usually tolerated | No fine in most cases |
| 10 to 20 km/h over | Around 20-25 JOD (≈ €25-32) | Payable on the spot or within 30 days |
| Up to 40-60 km/h over | Up to around 100 JOD (≈ €130) | Fixed fine, non-negotiable |
| Very large excess / dangerous driving | Higher fine, possible impoundment | Court summons possible depending on severity |
SIM Card and Internet in Jordan: Staying Connected From Petra to Wadi Rum
Inside Petra's Siq, between two 80-metre sandstone walls, the signal bar flickers before dropping out completely. At Wadi Rum, a Bedouin camp sometimes gets better reception than the town nearby — a matter of generator and local antenna, not logic. Jordan is nonetheless one of the easiest countries in the Middle East to drive around, with generally decent coverage along the King's Highway and the Desert Highway. Here's how to get equipped before hitting the road between Amman, Petra, Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea, and where the connection drops out regardless.
- Check exactly what your home plan covers in Jordan — some EU travel plans include it, others don't — before relying on it for the whole trip.
- Activate an eSIM before departure (Airalo, Holafly) to secure arrival and the first days in Amman.
- For an itinerary heading toward Wadi Rum or the Desert Highway, a Zain SIM bought at Queen Alia Airport gives the best rural coverage.
- A passport is required for any SIM card, regardless of carrier.
- Download the Petra site map before entering the Siq: signal there is weak to non-existent.
- At Wadi Rum, count on camp wifi in the evening and treat daytime 4x4 tracks as offline.
- Mount the phone on a dashboard holder and rely on voice guidance: holding it while driving has been fined up to JOD 50 since 2023.
| What to check | Why it matters | Before you fly |
|---|---|---|
| Is Jordan in your travel-plan zone? | Some EU carriers include it automatically, others don't | Check the operator's app or account |
| Data allowance and validity | Volumes and durations vary widely between plans | Confirm the exact quota for your trip length |
| Cost of an add-on pass if not included | Paid international passes are the common fallback | Compare against a local SIM or eSIM |
Travel Insurance for Jordan: Costly Hospitals, Desert Rescue Delays, and No Social Security Agreement
The King's Highway winding past Crusader castles, Petra's canyon carved into rose-colored sandstone, the dunes of Wadi Rum stretching to the horizon: Jordan stands out as one of the most affordable self-drive destinations in the Middle East. But one thing catches many French travelers off guard: unlike Morocco, linked to France by a bilateral social security agreement, Jordan has signed no equivalent agreement covering health care. A sick or injured tourist pays their medical bill in full, and in the desert, rescue can take over an hour to arrive. On an itinerary that mixes narrow mountain roads, Wadi Rum tracks and long desert stretches, understanding what Jordan's health system covers — and, crucially, doesn't — matters just as much as choosing the right 4x4 or an international driving permit.
- Aim for a medical expense cap of at least €50,000, ideally €100,000 to €150,000.
- Check that repatriation is covered on an actual-cost basis, with no low cap.
- Make sure "driving a rental vehicle" is not excluded from the policy.
- Check for the absence of an exclusion on hiking in unmarked desert areas.
- Expect nothing from your carte Vitale in Jordan: it has no value there.
- Budget extra time for rescue delays if you're heading to Wadi Rum or the desert south.
- Keep the 24/7 assistance number in the glovebox, next to the rental vehicle's paperwork.
| Type of cost | Approximate amount |
|---|---|
| Emergency room visit, public sector (average) | ≈ JOD 32 (≈ €38) |
| Inpatient day, public sector (average) | ≈ JOD 237 (≈ €284) |
| Consultation, private clinic | JOD 20 to 50 (≈ €24 to €60) |
| Hospital night, private clinic | ≈ JOD 190 (≈ €230) |
| Major procedure without insurance | > JOD 5,000 (≈ €6,000) |
| Helicopter medical evacuation from the desert | ≈ $3,000 per flight hour |
Visa and Jordan Pass: what do you need to enter Jordan for a road trip?
“Do I need a visa for Jordan?” The short answer is yes — 40 JOD on arrival for most Western nationalities — but the real question is whether to get the Jordan Pass instead, which bundles that visa with entry to Petra and around 40 other sites. It can save more than its own price, provided you meet a precise minimum-stay rule and cross at the right border. Here's how to work it out before a self-drive trip between Amman, Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea.
| Tier | Price | Petra access | Visa included (from 3 nights) | Vs. buying separately |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wanderer | 70 JOD | 1 day | Yes | 90 JOD (visa + 1-day Petra) without the Pass |
| Explorer | 75 JOD | 2 days | Yes | about 133 JOD without the Pass |
| Expert | 80 JOD | 3 days | Yes | about 176 JOD without the Pass |
When to go to Jordan? Seasons, desert heat and the crowds at Petra
Jordan gets summed up in one simple, misleading idea: 'it's the desert, so it's hot'. In reality, Amman and Petra sit at 800–1,100 metres and get genuinely cold winters — including the odd snow day in January — while Aqaba swims year-round. For a road trip linking the Dead Sea, the King's Highway and Wadi Rum, the calendar is as much about altitude as about months. Here's how to set it.
| Period | Amman / Petra (800-1,100 m) | Wadi Rum / Aqaba / Dead Sea | Road trip verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| March-May | 18-28°C, hills in bloom | 25-35°C | Ideal — visitor peak in April |
| June-August | 30-34°C, cool nights | 38-42°C | Doable by following the altitude |
| September-November | 20-28°C | 28-36°C then mild | Ideal — peak in October-November |
| December-February | 8-14°C, snow possible | 15-22°C, cold nights in the Rum | Great for Aqaba/Red Sea, flash floods |

Our flagship guide — €44
Guide available“Jordan on Your Own”, the complete edition, is out
10 chapters: day-by-day itineraries, driving and transport, a costed budget and checklists — the same method as our Namibia guide.
The guide is currently written in French — an English edition is in the works.
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